Don’t look down—look into my eyes,” says mark Landers of Segway of Hampton Roads, hovering his Segway PT in front of mine. “You’ll need your horizon.”

Photographer John Sheally and I have never set foot on Segways before, but we’re game to tour Freemason, one of Norfolk’s oldest and most charming neighborhoods, via the battery-powered rolling platforms.

Tucked along the busy Elizabeth River, Freemason was the city’s first suburb, home to some of Norfolk’s most prominent and prosperous citizens dating back into the 18th century.

A Segway tour—a fun experience anytime of the year in usually balmy Norfolk—is a great way to get an up-close look at today’s Freemason, a vibrant neighborhood with new townhouses and condos blending into the vintage architecture along the working waterfront. Museums, restaurants, and bars, many within walking distance of the restored Victorian Freemason Inn, an elegant British-flavored bed and breakfast, make it a uniquely walkable weekend getaway.

Landers wants to assure we survive our turtle-paced (6 mph) trek so he drills us on safety. Hands on the handlebars, lean forward to go, backward to stop, and steer left and right with your body. Seems simple enough. My gaze locks onto Landers’ eyes, and I make a few turns around the parking lot while his assistant, David Sinclair, coaches John through the same basics. And we’re off.

In 10 minutes we’re feeling at one with our rides, gliding along cobblestone streets and brick sidewalks, past 19th-century townhouses overlooking the Elizabeth River, and down quaint side streets of manicured mini-lawns and wrought-iron fences.

We’re following the Cannonball Trail, a heritage walking tour highlighting Norfolk’s history. Since the mid-17th century the city has survived marauding pirates, Revolutionary War bombardments, yellow fever, Civil War occupations, and a persistent reputation as a rowdy sailor hangout.

We ease up our Segways to our first stop, a large Chinese pagoda, a gift from the Taiwan provincial governor in 1989, set amid year-round gardens on the riverfront. The pagoda houses an art gallery and a tearoom serving Pacific Rim cuisine.

On the river we watch the tall-masted American Rover sail on one of its harbor cruises and see the sleek Spirit of Norfolk that combines dining and dancing with river tours of the city and the Navy’s Atlantic Fleet. Pleasure boats mix with tugs, barges, Navy vessels, and an occasional ocean-going cruise ship.

We’re next to one of the riverfront’s largest landmarks, the battleship USS Wisconsin, veteran of World War II and the Korean and Persian Gulf wars. Part of the Navy’s inactive fleet, the ship is open for free tours.

The Wisconsin, connected to the Hampton Roads Naval Museum, is one of a dozen U.S. Navy-operated museums, and features 233 years of naval history. The free museum, displaying uniforms, weaponry, underwater artifacts, and ship models, is on the second floor of Nauticus, the National Maritime Center. Nauticus is a find for families, an interactive museum showcasing all things nautical from shipbuilding to environmental issues as well as a “petting lagoon” and simulated submarine and aircraft carrier experiences.

One of our favorites among Norfolk’s historic sites is the nearby MacArthur Square, a quartet of buildings honoring the legendary Gen. Douglas MacArthur. The admission-free museum, housed in the former city hall, holds thousands of World War II artifacts and MacArthur memorabilia including his corncob pipe and his staff car, a 1950 Chrysler Crown Imperial in mint condition. The general and his wife, Jean, are buried in the museum’s rotunda.

Off our Segways, we thank Landers and head for the Chrysler Museum on the Hague inlet of the Elizabeth, just outside the Freemason section but worth the longer walk. Renowned for its expansive glass collection, the Chrysler is named for automotive heir Walter P. Chrysler, whose art collection is the foundation of the museum’s inventory of 30,000 artworks. Recently, generous benefactors enabled the museum to remove admission fees to its general collection. Special exhibits, such as one on ancient Egyptian art and artifacts, running through early January, will still carry a charge.

Time to shop? In the Freemason area the MacArthur Center, a 1-million-square-foot, three-story mall, boasts shops, theaters, and restaurants. But for a real treat, walk the couple blocks to the D’Art Center in the splendidly restored 1930s Selden Arcade. Dozens of resident artists have studios here—with works for sale—and are happy to chat as they create.

If museums and shopping stir up an appetite, we suggest you try one of Freemason’s numerous restaurants. Options range from casual French (Voila) to Spanish paella (Todd Jurich’s Bistro) to T-bone steaks (Byrd and Baldwin Bros. Steakhouse). Freemason Abbey offers a unique dining experience, mezzanine seating in an 1873 brownstone Victorian church building.

Wherever you end up in Freemason, remember to wear comfy shoes. The charming cobblestone streets, constructed from ballast rocks from colonial sailing ships, can be challenging to walk on in the wrong footwear. Segways, however, glide right over them. 

Phyllis Speidell wrote about Annapolis’ kit homes in our November issue.