DECEMBER 2005

How Ghent Got Its Groove

Norfolk's stylish neighborhood mixes historic with hip. The range of traditional and funky modern art at the Chrysler Museum mirrors the neighborhood's eclectic tone.

Written By Donna Rich
Photography By Scott Suchman

Ghent Gathered under the neon marquee on Colley Avenue is a diverse gathering of cinephiles, avant-garde film lovers who flock to the funky circa-1930 Naro Expanded Cinema. A teenage girl, wearing a disinterested air and backpack that screams cool, waits for the box office to open. Beside her is her fifty-something mother, bangle bracelets jingling with excitement, as she chats with her own stylish mother. Like its hometown of Ghent, the Naro is something of a multi-generational, cultural epicenter.

Ghent, a neighborhood west of Norfolk’s downtown and bordered by the arm of Smith’s Creek known as the Hague, is Tidewater Virginia’s answer to Greenwich Village: historic, hip, artsy-fartsy—and with just enough quirkiness.

Ghent Though bordered by a vast medical complex and three bustling streets, this is no concrete jungle. Ghent, which took its name from the Belgium town where the War of 1812 treaty was signed, is Norfolk’s oldest subdivision, developed around the turn of the twentieth century. Park-like settings and public greens weaving throughout the village give it an old-world charm. Many of the mature trees, including majestic magnolias, date back to that development and mingle gracefully among the historic homes.

The town’s impressive architecture, in the form of single residences, rowhouses, and early twentieth-century apartment buildings, fortuitously remains in a charismatic mix of styles. There are fanciful towers and turrets, plus Queen Anne-style wraparound porches, and the stately simplicity of brick colonial revivals. For house voyeurs like me, it’s a real treat.

Ghent From Ghent’s genteel waterfront on the Hague (town fathers wanted to underscore the European connection by renaming the Elizabeth River tributary), it’s just a scenic meander to the commercial district. The avenue dubbed Mombray Arch follows the curve of the crescent-shaped creek, once surrounded by farmland but now civilized with stone seawalls, walkways, and benches. Year round, people jog and bike this scenic, tree-lined stretch, home to some of Ghent’s oldest homes, dating back to 1892.

I start my tour of this pedestrian’s paradise along the water, where I’m drawn to the striking equestrian sculpture outside the commanding arches of the Chrysler Museum of Art. This world-class collection, ranging from Egyptian antiquities to contemporary treasures and an amazing exhibit of glassworks, is one of Norfolk’s cultural hot spots, along with the lavish Harrison Opera House next door. Home to the Virginia Opera, this former World War II USO theater was refurbished in the early nineties.

Ghent Not surprisingly, Ghent is an extremely popular hometown for those weary of cookie-cutter cul-de-sacs and the gas-guzzling suburban mentality. And judging from rising prices, the growth shows no signs of slowing. “Everyone tries to stretch the boundaries,” says shop owner and native James Pennington of the approximately eighty-acre area known as Historic Ghent. “If you see an advertisement for an apartment in Ghent under $1,000, you know it’s close to Ghent, not in it.”

Arnold McKinnon is used to people complimenting him on his 1910 waterfront mansion on Mombray Arch. His house is part of a one-time lawyers’ row of some twenty attorneys who once lived in the upper-middle class enclave. Now a diverse group of residents call it home. “We retired here eight years ago especially because of its closeness to downtown and all there is to do there,” he says of nearby Norfolk’s many cultural and entertainment offerings. “Yet Ghent is small-town, pleasant living.”

Ghent Susan Wallace concurs, noting the “great neighborhood feel” as she replants her window boxes on the porch of her circa-1903 house, the attractive six-fireplace home she and her Navy husband restored.

“I love the mix of old homes and personalities, from students to old people,” she says.

Non-Ghenters can get that feel at the Page House Inn, the circa-1899 Georgian revival-style mansion, just a hop, skip, and jump from the Chrysler Museum. Ghent’s only lodging is also Norfolk’s only four diamond-rated accommodation, with a parlor, sunny rooftop terrace, and rocker-lined veranda, perfect for people-watching. The inn has three sumptuous suites and four guest rooms; four have fireplaces, and the Bathe Suite has a luxurious sunken hot tub.

Ghent Your posh pooch host is a Yorkshire terrier named Stormi Weathers, so popular with guests that they often email her after their stay. (Your pets are welcome as well.) Looking chic in a designer doggie scarf, she totters up the grand stairway as inn owner Carl Albero gives the tour. Stopping at one room, she growls at the door where a dog guest stayed. “The only one not pet-friendly is Stormi,” laughs Albero, a fun guy and self-described Parrothead.

It’s easy to see why Ghent has a reputation for being the “in place” to live; it’s small-town accessible, with rows of unique boutiques, cafés, and restaurants.

Ghent As I head over to explore its twin main streets, Colley Avenue (north and south) and 21st Street (east to west), I start fantasizing about moving here and trading my car in for two wheels. I could easily pedal around town and never leave Ghent, where I’d also never have to cook, thanks to its abundance of eateries.

Kelly’s Tavern is the neighborhood’s answer to Cheers, so famed for its popular burger it has morphed into a small local chain. It’s two-for-tea in the delightful tearoom of Rowena’s. Make sure to tour its jam, jelly, and cake factory and gift shop for take-home goodies.

And if it’s tea you like, enjoy “Tea with Santa” every Sunday in December at The Painted Lady. These two brightly hued Victorian houses have been fused together to form a series of richly colored opulent rooms—and a fine gourmet restaurant. It’s been called the area’s most romantic spot, with great ambience that includes five working fireplaces. Contemporary pianist Keith Nesbit tickles the ivories here every Friday and Saturday night.

At lunch, I found the food was anything but no frills at the No Frill Bar and Grill, a highly recommended eatery just steps from Colley Avenue. The cream of chicken soup was definitely not grandma’s; the exotic mushrooms added a tasty modern dimension. Along with the teriyaki and sesame-grilled tuna, it made a memorable meal that was surprisingly easy on the pocketbook. It’s a hopping venue, with a full martini menu enticing the happy-hour crowd around the triangle-shaped bar.

Ghent The array of boutiques and galleries in town will feed anyone’s window shopping fix, though your credit cards may be burning if you dare to venture in.

Stores are often posh and pricey, but you’ll be rewarded with unique discoveries. Even secondhand is upscale here. Try The White Rabbit for men, women, and children’s new and lightly used clothing, as well as new gifts, stationery, and jewelry. Home-décor consignment shops include Urban Castaways and Digs Home Gallery, along with Act II, which showcases next-to-new home accessories, ladies’ clothing, and jewelry—all cast-offs with class.

Texture, housed in a rambling 1904 duplex, features rugs made from ties and purses crafted from recycled rubber inner tubes as well as jewelry made from colorful art glass, greeting cards, and baby gifts. A java jolt is available upstairs in the living room-like

Locals’ Guide to Ghent

Donut Dynasty
It was a sad day this summer when a five-decade Ghent tradition, the Donut Dinette, closed its doors. Brief was the mourning, though, since new owners have polished up the chrome stools of the circa-1950 diner and reopened it, using the same time-honored donut recipe. 1917 Colley Ave. 757-625-0061.

Feverish Times
In 1855, yellow fever struck Norfolk so suddenly and spread so rapidly that coffin production couldn’t keep up. Cemetery plots couldn’t be dug fast enough, so many of the 2,000 victims were buried in a mass grave. It was long forgotten, until 1993, when a local Girl Scout troop planted a garden and placed a plaque dedicating the spot as the Yellow Fever Memorial Park. Northwest corner of West Princess Anne Rd. and Hampton Blvd.

Feast on the Prose
Fill up on culture with the Ghent Poetry Café, a creative group of local poets who share their original works every second Tuesday at 7:30 p.m. at Broad Street Books. 517 W. 21st St. 757-622-2468.

Manly Man Manicure
Men need pampering, too. Have him stop into Jake’s Place, a Ghent salon where men can indulge in Jake’s Signature Package—a manicure, massage, facial, and a haircut—for $236. 520 W. 21st St. 757-625-5300, ext. 3 or http://www.jakesplaceghent.com

Paint the Town
If you’ve got children in tow (or someone who’s acting like a child), check out Color Me Mine, a paint-your-own-pottery studio. Choose from more than 400 items to decorate, from jewelry boxes to alligators. Stop in on Dec. 3 for the “Paint with Santa” party from 10 a.m.-noon (pre-registration a must). 1300 Colley Ave. 757-625-1666 or norfolk.colormemine.com.