Woodlawn Farm Historic Bed and Breakfast
16040 Woodlawn Ln.
Ridge, Md.
301-872-0555 or http://www.woodlawn-farm.com

In orange-sherbet sun was melting behind the manor house as we made our way up the mile-long drive to Woodlawn Farm. In the field to our left, a great blue heron glanced at our car, gave a colossal shrug, then continued to poke for dinner. “He likes it better out here than on the river,” explains owner and innkeeper Jim Grube as he greets us. Once we had spent just a day at Woodlawn, we appreciated that avian instinct; we, too, wanted to settle in for the season.

Woodlawn’s 180 acres nestle along a lovely forested cove off Calvert Bay in Southern Maryland, with a view across the wide Potomac that remains much the same as it was when Matthias Clarke built his home here in 1798. The original three-story structure was restored so exquisitely by the previous owners that it earned a 1990 grand prize from the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

An expansive, late-twentieth-century Gathering Room is where guests check in, eat breakfast, read, or just soak up river views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Accommodations, however, are in delightfully private suites in three adjacent outbuildings.

The separation gave us an excuse (not that we needed one) to do a little strolling into green tunnels created by some of the oldest boxwoods in the country, through the small cottage garden, and along the shoreline.

At dusk, we snuggled into rocking chairs on the lawn to admire the last of the sunset, which had turned the mirror- still water into a palette of purples. Aside from the occasional bird call, there wasn’t a sound.

The Innkeepers “It was never in my script to own a B&B,” Grube admits with a grin. “Our dream was to find a small farm near the road to start a vineyard, but we found this large farm instead.” When the charms of Woodlawn proved irresistible, he and his wife, Maggie O’Brien, president of nearby St. Mary’s College of Maryland, adapted their business plan to include innkeeping-and found additional land nearby to grow their grapes.

Those seven acres now produce Italian reds such as Sangiovese, Barbera, and Montepulciano, as well as Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The first vintage of their Jubilee label has already been bottled, and construction will soon begin on a tasting room in a far corner of the Woodlawn property.

Now two years into his third career (after stints as a lacrosse coach and corporate wellness executive), Grube eschews the frilly, Laura Ashley approach to B&Bs. Instead, he says, he sees Woodlawn as an understated retreat, tastefully appointed with antiques and reproductions, that’s almost like a second home. “It’s about privacy,” he says, noting the long list of return visitors. “Less is more. This place is really the essence of getting away. It’s quiet here on the peninsula, and it’s an easier drive from Washington than to a place on the Eastern Shore-you can be here in two hours.” And don’t worry about keeping to a time-table. “Our motto is, “‘Come as early as you can, and stay as late as you can.’” Breakfast? “Whenever you want.”

The Rooms The private entrance to our Poppy Suite cottage was crowned by an arbor of vines (soon to be covered with yellow roses, Grube promised). With a common area, full kitchen, laundry, bedroom, and bath decorated in a soothing medley of neutrals, our accommodations offered overstuffed comfort and space to spare-enough for a family of four, if the pull-out couch was put into service. The generous proportions throughout pleased my six-foot four-inch spouse, who occasionally feels cramped in B&B digs. In the main room and the master bedroom, French doors opened onto a furnished deck and that jaw-dropping river view, as pretty at dawn as it was at sunset. Electronic amenities included cable TV and wireless high-speed Internet access.

Woodlawn’s three other cottages-the River, Sunflower, and Pineapple-also include sitting areas. The Magnolia Cottage, a replica of a diminutive seventeenth-century house, has its own Jacuzzi tub and opens onto a cozy parterre. Two more cottages are now under construction by the manor house and will be available later in the year.

Special Touches Don’t miss Grube’s tour of his perfectly preserved eighteenth-century home, especially the parlor mantel with its exquisite original woodwork. Glassed-in niches throughout showcase parts of the early structure (like the wall doodles from Matthias Clarke’s young daughter in Elizabeth’s Room).

What’s for Breakfast The sizzle of bacon and the glow of a log fire in the hearth welcomed us to the Gathering Room in the morning. Grube happily demonstrated his skills as a conversationalist as well as a cook. As he served up chilled honeydew, a savory frittata, a mound of bacon, and moist “eggy bread” (aka French toast) at our table for two, he shared his savvy insights on current events. Two hours later, we were still chatting.

Diversions A few miles south of Woodlawn is Point Lookout State Park, a sandy fishhook at the mouth of the Chesapeake that’s perfect for bike rides (Grube can arrange a rental) or beach picnics. Stop by the memorial to the Confederate dead who perished in the notorious POW camp here. Historic St. Mary’s City, Maryland’s first capital, is six minutes north, as is the campus of St. Mary’s College of Maryland, where the popular River Concert Series attracts thousands of music lovers each summer.
A half-hour to the east are the boardwalk, marinas, and eateries of Solomons Island.

Romance Factor Ah, the quiet. In our private suite, we indulged our this-is-our-weekend-waterfront-place fantasy to the max, dreaming what-if dreams on both deck chairs and the big, pillowy bed. Planning a wedding? Clients can reserve all of Woodlawn for the big event-there’s even a bridal consultant available.

What It’s Going to Cost April through November, $135 to $190 per night.

Carol Denny writes from Annapolis.