The Essex Inn
203 Duke St.
Tappahannock, Va.
1-866-ESSEXVA, http://www.essexinva.com
Imagine the first thing most people notice when they pull up in front of the Essex Inn is its handsome white Georgian façade. Or perhaps the carefully tended front garden or the seasonal wreath on the front door. I notice Porter, a Manx Calico cat. She pads over to me as I step out of the car, inviting me to scratch her head and tell her how beautiful she is. But even if you’re not a cat enthusiast, you’ll still receive a warm welcome from Melodie Pogue, who, with her husband Reeves, runs the inn.
The inn, built around 1850 and also known as the Roane-Wright-Trible House, is a classic example of Greek Revival, and as my husband and I step inside, we notice the four, bright rooms that make up the first floor as well as the wide planked staircase that sweeps through the center hall. And I can’t wait to take up Melodie’s invitation to explore after we’re shown to the Yellow Room, our home for the night.
While my husband takes a nap, I go back downstairs and walk clockwise through the four rooms, starting in the Wedgwood-blue dining room with its sparkling chandelier and elegant antique sideboards. The blue walls (and the antiques) carry through to the library, which looks ready to host a chic cocktail party. Across the hall, the music room is dominated by a baby grand piano. My final stop is the pantry, where I notice a treasure trove of edible goodies, and make a mental note to stop back for a nightcap after dinner.
The Innkeepers Eminently organized, the Pogues dispel the notion that married couples cannot work together. They maintain a clear division of house duties, with Melodie managing the business end, acting as chef, and taking care of check out, while Reeves greets guests at night and has various handyman duties. “I couldn’t imagine doing anything else,” says Melodie. “It allows Reeves and me to do something together.”
The Rooms Guests can opt for either a room with private bath in the inn or a larger suite in the converted servants’ quarters, housed in a separate building behind the inn. We stayed in the main house in one of four cozy rooms named for the color of the walls. All of the rooms have custom-made four-poster beds. Sitting high atop the creamy bedspread made me feel like the princess of fairy tale fame who could feel a small pea underneath a pile of a dozen mattresses (though my mattress was nothing short of comfortable). The Pogues have thoughtfully placed small stepstools in the rooms to help guests both ascend and descend the beds. All rooms boast gas fireplaces, cable television, and DSL for those who cannot be separated from their laptops.
The suites are slightly less fancy, but offer more room to lounge. I was particularly taken with the black-and-white décor and rustic fireplace of the Quarters Kitchen Suite. (The suites are designated by their former use or location, such as the laundry or downstairs). The charming Upstairs Suite, the largest of the four, includes a king bed and a full sleep sofa.
Special Touches If you’ve always dreamed of having a beer tap in your home, you’re going to love the inn’s Butler’s Pantry. Chock-full of all sorts of tempting snacks from popcorn to cookies, it also boasts not one but two beer taps (featuring the low-carb Michelob Ultra and the high-test Sierra Nevada Pale Ale), as well as less spirited beverage options, including coffee and tea.
And although cool weather prevented me from enjoying a book on the inn’s screened-in porch or taking in some sun on the brick back patio, I would make a beeline for both in warmer months.
What’s for Breakfast We missed Melodie’s signature crab and grits (she usually serves this on Sunday mornings—sigh), but the pecan waffles served with bacon and preceded by curried fruit were pretty special, nonetheless. (During winter, you might be lucky enough to get Black Forest waffles—cocoa waffles with cherries.)
Melodie always serves two courses at the table, and guests can also help themselves to yogurt, fruit, and cereal prior to the rest of their breakfast. Guests who stay in the suites may choose to have continental breakfast in their rooms.
Diversions Tappahannock sits on Virginia’s Middle peninsula, south of the Northern Neck. And between the two areas, there are a plethora of activities to occupy guests, from birdwatching to winery tours to visiting the birthplaces of George Washington and Robert E. Lee.
The inn also sponsors a number of special activity-filled weekends in conjunction with the local public library, like the Weekend with a Writer program, a chance to rub elbows over dinners and talk books with an author. (A weekend in November featured “Antiques Roadshow” appraiser Emyl Jenkins, who read from her new novel and gave antique appraisals). Future visiting writers include authors David Baldacci and Lee Smith (see weekendwithawriter.com for more details).
The weekend of February 29-March 1, the inn will host a knitters weekend, complete with workshops and a mock award ceremony.
Romance Factor There’s nothing cozier than a fireplace in winter, especially if you don’t have one at home. The main house has eight, including the one in your room. Time to cuddle up!
What It’s Going to Cost
Rooms in the main house, $140-$150; suites
in “the Quarters,” $165-$180 (two
night minimum).
Mary K. Zajac writes from Baltimore.
