Photography by Scott Suchman
The Inn at Onancock
30 North St.
Onancock, Va.
757-789-7711, http://www.innatonancock.com
It was a “Calgon take me away” moment, only better. Soaking in the soothing warmth of the tub, surrounded by a sea of candles and armed with a glass of chardonnay, the stress of my nearby office seemed a million miles away.
Shortly after my arrival at The Inn at Onancock, located on the northern end of Virginia’s Eastern Shore, I made a beeline to the state-of-the-art air-jet tub in my room. Built for two (alas, my beau was still caught in Virginia Beach traffic), I relished my opulent oasis, lifting my head only to sip or add a little more mineral sea salt to the bath water.
Though it was tempting to make like a mermaid and stay submerged, I did want to explore the inn. I found elegant touches throughout, such as an Asian watercolor on silk and other exotic pieces from the innkeepers’ travels abroad. These pieces stand out among an uncluttered mix of oriental rugs and American antiques.
From the exterior, the unassuming house looks like many of the handsome B&Bs that call the Eastern Shore home, right down to the welcoming rocking chairs. But the simple façade belies the luxurious resort-like accommodations, from the chandeliers in each bathroom to the plush bathrobes to the feather comforter-topped beds, covered with 1,000-thread-count sheets.
The Innkeepers Owner Kris LaMontagne retired from a stressful job heading up the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service’s $800 million grant program in Washington, D.C. Originally from Massachusetts, he and wife Lisa, a former caterer and nonprofit director, spent seventeen years in the B&B discussion stage before finally purchasing the circa-1885 Victorian house in 2005. “We both saw the potential in the Eastern Shore’s off-the-beaten-path beauty,” says Kris, “and we knew we wanted the tranquility of being near the water.”
The nine-month remodeling process included constructing a two-story addition and painstakingly removingthe wallpaper throughout the house to preserve the authentic plaster walls. “We did extensive research, talking to many B&B owners,” says Lisa. “The message was that it’s important to create a place that reflects your personality; then you will attract people with the same interests, who will truly enjoy your B&B.”
The Rooms My boyfriend is a ship captain, so how could I not select the seashore ambience of the Maine Coast Room? The nautical décor will appeal to anyone drawn to the sea. Nestled under the rafters, we had the third floor all to ourselves.
All five rooms are inspired by the LaMontagnes’ favorite places and furnished with antiques. “The ingredients of the rooms were never placed together until the inn was completed,” says Lisa. “But miraculously it all worked."The Far East Room is a mingling of authentic Asian antiques, including a remarkable wood Chinese gate that serves as a headboard. The Provence Room’s yellow faux-finished walls, along with a remote-control fireplace and heaps of toile, lend a South of France feel. The Tuscany Room’s bay window, along with the sage and bronzed décor, bathes the room in warm romance, the perfect backdrop to the bronze and wood four-poster bed. The Williamsburg Room has wing chairs placed traditionally aside the fireplace, along with a cozy, full-size bed topped with a crocheted canopy.
Special Touches If, like me, you want your java jolt when you want it, the self-serve coffee and tea bar on the second floor allows refills 24/7. On the other end of the spectrum, the five to six o’clock “Wine Down Hour” features imported wines as well as labels from Machipongo-based Chatham Vineyards & Winery. During warm months, happy hour is enjoyed on the porch, or, if there’s a chill, cozy is the welcoming living room, complete with ornate fireplace. That’s where we sampled five international cheeses, fruit, freshly baked baguettes, and spanakopita appetizers.
And if you really want to be spoiled, pre-reserve the piece de resistance, the “Pampered Basket” ($150), where you and your hard-working sweetheart can enjoy a forty-five-minute rubdown by a massage therapist, as well as a complimentary comfy robe to take home. What’s for Breakfast We knew breakfast would be inventive when Lisa asked us the previous night if we liked seafood. The dining room’s antique sideboard served as the breakfast bar, complete with yogurt and homemade granola alongside Lisa’s homemade pear-almond tarts, croissants, and buttermilk biscuits, perfect with her three-berry preserves. The centerpiece of the gourmet offering was the sumptuous crab crepes. She even had the locally owned Eastern Shore Coastal Roasting Company make a signature coffee, “Wake Up at the Inn,” just for her bed and breakfast.
Diversions Clapboard steeples and gingerbread porches add to Onancock’s quaint factor. Sunsets are a scene stealer at the petite harbor, where Onancock Creek flows into the Bay. Going hungry here is not an option with the town’s amazing array of restaurants, pubs, and wine bars, most within two blocks of the inn. We had a five-star dinner at The Charlotte Hotel & Restaurant. And forgo the guilt: Calorie burning can be accomplished via a kayaking tour on the creek with Southeast Expeditions. (Kris can take care of reservations for you.)
Romance Factor Amour is in the air from the “we’re all alone” feel we enjoyed on the third floor, complete with cloud-like beds and luxurious baths that make taking a soak a prelude to seduction.
What It’s Going to Cost Nightly rates from $145 to $175.
Donna Bozza writes from Cape Charles, Va.
