Annapolis Royal Folly­
65 College Ave.
Annapolis
410-263-3999,
royalfolly.com

Samson, a toy poodle, announces my arrival at Annapolis Royal Folly, a Dutch colonial home across from the sleepy St. John’s College campus. Next comes Pat Mullen, who still speaks with the accent that belies her Boston roots despite living in Annapolis with husband and co-owner Ed for more than sixteen years. It’s a homey welcome that doesn’t detract from the elegance that immediately greets visitors when they step into Royal Folly’s entrance, which features gleaming wood floors, a wide staircase, and intricate moulding. I am looking forward to a quiet night of reading next to the fireplace and a welcome reprieve from my busy urban life.

THE INNKEEPERS
The couple developed an affinity for B&Bs after they were married at the luxurious Captain Lord Mansion in Kennebunkport, Maine, more than twenty years ago. Five years ago, they ditched their traditional jobs in sales, bought Royal Folly, and completed a massive renovation of the circa-1870 home, repainting the rooms in rich colors, like the tomato-toned dining room or the deep purple Queen’s Chamber. “It’s kind of whimsical, thus the ‘folly,’” says Pat. “We wanted to get people away from the norm. The bright colors are not what people would put in their own homes. But it gives the place a special feeling.”

THE ROOMS
Each of the five spacious rooms includes a fireplace and is named for one of the Mullens’ children (except for the “Queen’s Chamber” honeymoon suite). I choose “Lady Jennifer’s Suite” because it faces onto quiet backyards and has access to a semi-private deck and exterior hot tub. I like the sunny, blue-and-yellow color scheme, and there’s an inviting sleigh bed and several plush reading chairs to choose from. I immediately suss out the little creature comforts, sampling the chocolates in the candy dish, setting my iPod on the docking station, and channel flipping on the flat-screen television.

DIVERSIONS/SPECIAL TOUCHES
After Ed maps out the fastest walking route, I amble toward Eastport to meet a friend for dinner. Annapolis is a walkable town, of course, and Royal Folly is well-positioned near the heart of downtown attractions. The Mullens pride themselves on being in tune with their guests’ needs. If visitors arrive harried from traffic jams on a Friday night, bottles of wine appear in the living room, and those celebrating special anniversaries have been surprised by bottles of champagne in their room.

WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST
Breakfast is a multi-course event, and, as Ed says with a laugh, the portions reflect Pat’s generous Italian heritage. Understanding that guests come to Royal Folly as an escape—i.e., to sleep in—breakfast is served at the leisurely hour of 9 a.m., and there’s a champagne brunch on Sunday. My meal starts with kiwi and cantaloupe served with a ginger glaze, followed by what Pat simply calls her “Mexican breakfast,” peppers, onions, and cheese wrapped in a tortilla soaked in egg and baked into a golden casserole served with thick cut bacon. Not surprisingly, Samson keeps close by in case I’m a sloppy eater.

ROMANCE FACTOR
The laid-back breakfast schedule, opulent room décor, fireplaces and in-room Jacuzzis give the inn a romantic coziness. The exterior hot tub is particularly popular. “People have been engaged in that hot tub,” says Ed. 

WHAT’S IT GONNA COST $225 to $395

Christianna McCausland writes from Virginia.