Joe Sugarman

Cup o' Joe

Food, travel, and news on the Chesapeake Bay



Cecil County’s Best Restaurant?

Have you been to Elkton’s Fair Hill Inn recently? The inn itself dates to 1764, but the restaurant has been made over in the last few years, and behind the stove are two talented chefs—and passionate foodies—Phil Pyle and Brian Shaw. The team has taken the “locavore” craze to a new level and sources as many ingredients as they can literally from their own backyard garden. Going one step further, the pair makes their own cheeses, cures their own meats, and employs a hive of bees for fresh honey. Their efforts have paid off, as the restaurant has been lauded as a true gourmand’s dining destination.

Fair Hill serves dinner Wednesday through Sunday, but summer diners should take advantage of its Sunday Garden Supper, which includes a four-course meal for an extremely reasonable $30. Every Sunday the dishes change, dictated entirely by what emerges from the garden. “It’s hard to say what we’ll make,”  Pyle told me recently. “We see what we have in the dirt, yank it up, and put it on the plate.” (He did mention that all vegetables get a thorough washing first.)

Recent (June) dinners included wild king salmon with cauliflower puree, black truffle butter, and spring peas, and grilled beef medallions with glazed baby carrots and ramp butter risotto. Yum.

Sunday Garden Suppers are served between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m. through the growing season. Reservations are suggested. 410-398-4187

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