Those first ripe, locally grown tomatoes still arrive as a shock to our senses after a winter of pale, mealy, and dull-flavored imports. Once again, picking through roadside stands and overflowing farmers’ markets, we are planted firmly in the summer season.
Depending on the weather, the Chesapeake region starts seeing local tomatoes arrive around mid-July— the smaller cherry varieties come first. The best eating tomato is one that is fully ripe but not necessarily vine-ripened. The best way to ripen tomatoes (maximizing their sugar and acid content) is to pick them from the vine just as they are turning orange to red. (The sugar and acid actually decreases if left on the vine in strong sunlight.) Keep them inside for four to five days in natural light (between 59 and 70 degrees)—but not on the windowsill, contrary to popular belief, because the sun deteriorates the acid and sweetness.
Once ripened, a tomato might last only two more days. Pick tomatoes at the market that are heavy for their size, full of juice, with a smooth unblemished skin. And never store tomatoes in the refrigerator: The cold wipes out their flavor.
Sliced tomatoes, layered with cheese or in salads, are wonderful, but we get bored with those simple preparations, so I’ve offered several alternatives. Keep trying the assorted varieties to find your own favorites among the sweet (marigold and grape) and the tart (green tomatoes).
After all, in these lazy days of summer, tomatoes are as abundant as leaves in the fall, especially if you have a garden right out back.
Roasted Tomato Soup with Bay Scallops and Avocado Basil Salad
Tomato, Olive and Anchovy Tarte Tatin
Tomato, Feta, Basil and Garlic Bruschetta
Roasted Cherry Tomato Spaghetti with Chili and Basil
Andrew Evans is the chef/owner of The Inn at Easton.
Masthead Photo by