Photography by Steve Buchanan
Good old mushrooms. It used to be that the tasteless white “button” variety was our only option; thankfully, with supermarkets going gourmet, we’re now seeing all sorts of mushrooms available. There is a whole range of flavors, from bland to rich, nutty or earthy, in types ranging from oyster, portobello, and cremini (baby portobellos) to lobster, shiitake, and my favorite, chanterelles. Wild mushrooms, with some of the best flavors, have strict seasons. For example, wild morels are harvested by hand in the Northwest for a short period of time in April and May. Luckily, there are many varieties being cultivated year-round for us to enjoy in any season.
Look for mushrooms that are firm and evenly colored; avoid specimens that are broken, damaged, or have soft spots with a dark tinged surface—they are past their prime. Mushrooms should be dry on purchase and stored dry. The best storage method is to lay them out evenly on a paper towel with a damp paper towel over top of them—this way, they’ll keep for at least three days in your refrigerator. If you bunch the mushrooms up by storing them in a bag, they will sweat and go bad rather quickly. The same thing happens if washed in water; they become mushy. The best way to clean mushrooms is with a pastry brush, flicking away any dirt.
There are endless ways to prepare mushrooms—these fun and easy recipes highlight each variety’s unique flavor.
Crostini with Sautéed Chanterelles, Fresh Herbs, and Chive Oil
Beef and Red Wine Pie with Portobello Mushrooms
Warm Cabbage Rolls with Shiitake Mushrooms
Andrew Evans is the chef/owner of The Inn at Easton.
