Globe Theatre Bistro

12 Broad St., Berlin, Md.
410-641-0784, http://www.globetheatre.com

Atmosphere: Theatrical
Food: Simple and seasonal
Clientele: Hipsters of all ages
Dress: Artsy to dressy casual
Service: Intermittent
Don’t miss: Tuna taco, rack of lamb, Russian cake
Tariff: Light fare, $4.95-$11.95; entrees, $15-$25
Open weekdays for breakfast and lunch, 9 a.m.-4 p.m.; dinner, 5-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.  Music by Shore Jazz, Thursdays, 7-9 p.m. Check Web site for schedule of other jazz, folk, blues, and bluegrass acts that appear on weekends. Reservations recommended.

Berlin, a time-warp town seven miles west of Ocean City, has three claims to fame: film producers love it (Runaway Bride and Tuck Everlasting were filmed here); its very-Victorian Atlantic Hotel with its lavish holiday dinners; and the Globe Theatre, the community’s entertainment epicenter. 

Now celebrating its fifteenth anniversary, the Globe is a restored movie theater brought to life by Kate Hastings and her family. Winner of the 2002 Governor’s Award of Excellence in Small Business, the theater houses a gift shop—books, cards, boutique wines, gourmet foodstuffs—art exhibits, myriad musical concerts, and most recently, gourmet dinners.

Hastings upgraded the theater’s small lunch café in May 2003 by adding white tablecloth dining on two levels. She hired John Meushaw of the old Baltimore restaurant family as chef.

We timed our visit to the Bistro for a Thursday night, when seasoned chanteuse Holly Lane and a group of talented musicians called Shore Jazz enliven the dining experience from six to nine on a weekly basis. Arriving early, we took a seat at the wine bar tucked into a corner near the entrance. We sipped a lively Kris Pinot Grigio and a lush Rex Goliath California Merlot while grooving to a combination of Cole Porter, Miles Davis, Edith Piaf-style cabaret tunes, and jazz riffs in the fifty-seat theater, which occupies its own separate space but is open on one side.

Glasses empty, we reluctantly left our velvet-upholstered seats to climb the stairs to a loft, where a dozen tables covered with sparkling white cloths and black napkins set an elegant tone. Aubergine walls covered with artwork by local artists contributed to the theatrical feel of the space, while music from the stage below provided an exciting surround-sound. It was an altogether auspicious beginning to a dining experience that had its ups and downs.

We started with a scrumptious soft-flour fish taco filled with strips of marinated grilled tuna, New Orleans shrimp gumbo, and rice studded with bits of smoky sausage. The house salad was impeccable—a simple mix of assorted greens and chopped tomatoes lightly tossed with a basil vinaigrette and topped with toasted almonds and crumbled blue cheese.

As we waited for our entrees—the Bistro’s veal chop (recommended by the chef) and his interpretation of chicken Eugenie (boneless breast of chicken layered with sage dressing, thin slices of country ham, and sautéed mushroom caps)—praise for the kitchen floated in from the next table.
“You haven’t liked food in years, and you just cleaned your plate,” marveled an older gentleman dining with his fashionable wife. We were tempted to ask what she had for dinner, since there was no visible evidence, but restrained ourselves.

Alas, our server returned to our table after taking our order to belatedly report that veal chops were not available that evening. Would we like rack of lamb instead? We agreed to the substitute, but when our meals arrived—much later—it was apparent that the poor chicken Eugenie had been perched in the kitchen too long. Its sage stuffing had bonded to the chicken breast and a sherried cream sauce did nothing to rescue the dish from mediocrity. Take that back—the accompanying corn on the cob and a broiled tomato were delicious. Thankfully, the plate of baby lamb chops garnished with asparagus, whole miniature carrots, and strips of fried sweet potatoes tasted as good as it looked.

On our next visit, we’re hoping the elusive veal chop will return. If not, our second choice will be the light fare being enjoyed by a multi-generational group near us. A New York strip steak with sautéed mushrooms, red onions, and Havarti cheese on pannini bread looked pretty fine from afar, as did the evening’s pizza du jour, with Asiago cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, and lump crabmeat on a Boboli-style crust. Chef Meushaw changes the menu frequently, and guests are advised to check the restaurant Web site for updates. The light fare as well as the entrée menu change seasonally. 

Definitely sample the desserts—beautiful creations artistically displayed in a glass case at the front of the premises. Italian Love Cake features three layers of rich yellow and devil’s food cake baked around a sweet ricotta filling with shaved chocolate and orange folded in and topped with whipped cream. The Russian cake was equally decadent—the same dense devil’s food soaked with a Kahlua glaze and frosted with fresh whipped cream and chocolate syrup. 

Such sweetness calls for good coffee, a specialty at the Globe Theatre, with java that attracts patrons day and night. Hastings selects her beans as carefully as her wines, with the newest a Mexican dark roast she calls “mind-body-soul coffee.” We enjoyed a deep-flavored Tanzanian French roast while listening to the rousing finale of the Shore Jazz performance.

Despite a few downs, our experience was positive on so many different levels that we left happy. The Globe Theatre Bistro is clearly an original—in the best sense of the word.

Note: For the past ten years, Hastings has been hosting a gala Beaujolais Nouveau tasting at the Globe on the Friday after Thanksgiving. Wine, music, and elaborate hors d’oeuvres make this a congenial holiday tradition. No special invitations needed, but reservations are necessary.

Mary Lou Baker has been a food and travel writer for more than twenty years.