KEN UPTON, owner of the Back Porch at Ken’s Creative Kitchen in Annapolis, is just as fussy about the food he serves to his famous clients (Ted Koppel, the Duke of Edinburgh, Madeleine Albright) as he is about what he serves friends at his private dinner parties.
Upton and his executive chef, Barbara Collinson, recently put together a traditional menu for a Korean wedding. It called for a special trip to Korean Korner in Wheaton, Md., a one-stop-shop for Asian ingredients, including cabbage and radishes used to make kimchi as well as meaty short ribs, which the bride’s mother insisted upon for the main course. “In addition to Asian foods of all kinds,” says Upton, “I counted twenty different kinds of tortillas in the Mexican section.”
When he and his wife, Doran, prepare for a dinner party, Upton makes an early-morning trip to the Anne Arundel County Farmers Market to scoop up zinnias for the table, as well as fresh herbs, eggplant, daikon radishes, and seasonal berries. For seafood, Ken trusts Jay in the seafood department at Annapolis’s Whole Foods to point out the freshest catch of the day—and creates his favorite bouillabaisse around the suggestions. As for the most important ingredient in his signature crab cakes? Upton relies on Martin Seafood Company in Jessup: “It’s got to be Maryland crab—nothing else comes near its distinctively sweet taste.”
When COREY SMITH, chef at Stevensville’s Love Point Café craves chocolate—for the restaurant’s dessert selections, that is—he walks across the street to Peace of Cake bakery and stocks up on the house-made chocolate silk pie and chocolate mousse cake. Smith also makes sure his menu includes their key lime pie, made from an original recipe by café owner Tom Peterson, former executive chef at The Quay in Key West.
Peterson, whose credits also include a stint at Krabloonik, a wild game restaurant in Snowmass Village, Colo., features seasonal theme menus “so our regular customers don’t get bored.” He finds farm-raised game for his November and December selections (moose, elk, pheasant, quail, partridge, venison, duck, goose) at Fells Point Wholesale Meats in Baltimore and an online source, Valley Game and Gourmet in Sioux City, S.D.
As for the fresh herbs that enhance Love Point Café’s creations, “Members of the Kent Island Garden Club drop by regularly with donations,” Peterson says. “They’re a wonderfully generous group of ladies.”
Having a restaurant in the middle of farm country—and overlooking the Chesapeake Bay—means that most everything that AMY BRANDT, chef of Aqua restaurant at the luxe Bay Creek resort in Cape Charles, buys is fresh, fresh, fresh.
At Mattawoman Creek Farms, she finds lemon cucumbers (round, with a melon-lemon taste), heirloom tomatoes, eggplant, ten varieties of hot peppers, three types of yellow squash, and malabar spinach.
Other produce hot spots include the Cape Charles Farmers Market (open from Memorial Day to Labor Day), and Herbal Instincts in Onancock, which sell Swiss chard, beets, squash, and braising greens.
She buys the freshest clams and oysters at R&C in, naturally, Oyster, Va., and ventures a bit further a field to the B&B Meat Barn, in Parksley, Md., for free-range turkeys, rack of lamb, crown roast of pork. Brandt also likes the North Street Market in Onancock for gourmet cheeses.
MARK LAUBNER, chef-owner of Aquatica in Havre de Grace, gets ingredients for his Asin dishes from Catonsville’s Han Au Rheum, an ethnic market (part of a regional chain) where he finds produce and ingredients from around the world, including lemongrass, as well as rice cakes made on the premises.
JOHN SHEILDS, chef-owner of Gertrude’s in the Baltimore Museum of Art, cookbook author, and PBS cooking show host, loves Baltimore’s 32nd Street Farmers Market, open on Saturdays until noon. He finds some of the best produce, meat, eggs, dairy, breads, and cheeses in the area there, and adds, “ditto for the Sunday market under the Fallsway in downtown Baltimore.”
One of Shields’ favorite artisan cheese resources is Eddie’s of Roland Park, with locations on Roland Avenue and North Charles Street in Baltimore, where he finds fantastic blue and chevre goat cheeses made by Firefly Farms in Garrett County, recently recognized by Saveur magazine as one of the world’s best artisan cheese makers. He also likes Eddie’s Cowgirl Creamery’s Mount Tam, a soft, double cream that Shields says “is to die for.” (Both sell online as well.)
As for breads, Shields prefers Atwater’s and Bonjour Bakery in Baltimore, which, he says, has “outstanding baguettes and French pastry that’s the best this side of the Atlantic.”
GLENN MAY, chef and co-owner of the Kennedyville Inn near Chestertown, uses local farmers for produce, including Colchester Farms, a co-op farm where clients pay from $200 to around $400 for twenty-two weeks worth of fresh produce. “They have some of the nicest organic produce in this area as far as I am concerned,” says May.
For home cooks, he recommends Rumbleway Farm in Conowingo, Md., for grass-fed chicken, beef, and heirloom turkeys for the holidays. For prize-winning artisan cheeses, he also recommends the selections from Firefly Farms. They specialize in four goat cheeses: Merry Goat Round, Allegheny Chevre, Mountain Top Bleu, and Béche Noire.
BOB ROTHFUS, chef for both the upscale Nebula restaurant in Ocean City and its more casual sister eatery next door, Liquid Assets, is a big fan of Niman Ranch beef: he buys steaks, lamb, and pork from the company, including the ground beef that makes the Liquid Assets burger extra delicious. While he orders direct from Texas, it’s available to the home cook, as well, through its Web site. Beautiful Foods, a gourmet shop just off Route 1 in Rehoboth, is the place he shops for cheeses, spices, and flavored vinegars. Wind Bro Farms provides a good portion of his fresh herbs and locally grown produce via their stand at the weekly Berlin, Md., farmers’ market, while the Chef’s Garden Web site [chefsgarden.com] is where he finds the first-quality micro-greens, squash flowers, and baby corns featured on Nebula’s menu. Rothfus makes occasional pilgrimages north to Di Bruno Bros. on Rittenhouse Square in Philly for gourmet cheeses, spices, and cured meats.
J.J. MINETOLA, the versatile chef who turns out Asian food by day at Annapolis’s Tsunami and high-end urban fare by night at Metropolitan, buys bread at Great Harvest Bread Co. in West Annapolis, organic herbs from Eco Farms in Lanham, and fresh produce from Keany Produce in Hanover. He finds his favorite cheeses at Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe’s (he especially likes Miti Cana, a cheese from Spain made from sheep’s milk), and his lamb from Jamison Farm in Latrobe, Pa., “where Tom Keller of the French Laundry in California gets his.”
He depends on Martin Seafood in Jessup, but when entertaining at home, he favors Annapolis Seafood Market. As for coffee, he shops at Caffé Pronto in Annapolis. “Coffee is often the last thing our patrons are served,” says Minetola, “and we want them to leave with a good taste in their mouths.”
JOHN KOZIK, chef at the Westlawn Inn, is a tough customer when it comes to the food he buys for his North Beach restaurant. “He scrutinizes every morsel like he was going to serve it to his mother,” says Joseph Reintzel of L&M Produce, where Kozik buys specialty items like velvet oracle and bibb lettuces, black Italian truffles, and chanterelles, lobster, and trumpet mushrooms. Primarily a restaurant supplier, L&M’s warehouse in Jessup supplies bulk orders to private customers upon request.
Chef MICHAEL RORK, owner of Town Dock in St. Michaels, likes to use local suppliers whenever he can. One of his favorites is Classic Cakes II, an adorable bakery in a little stone house in St. Michaels. Owned by Smith Island native Dana Evans, the bakery’s signature item is Smith Island Cake, a multi-layered creation that comes with a choice of flavors and fillings. Sand Hill Farms in Greensboro, Md., keeps him stocked with heirloom tomatoes, herbs, and squash.
Mary Lou Baker writes from Annapolis.
32nd St. Farmers Market. E. 32nd and Barclay streets, Baltimore, Md. 410-889-6388 or 32ndstreetmarket.org. Open-air market, open year-round Sat. 7 a.m.-noon.
Anne Arundel County Farmers Market. Riva Rd. and Harry S. Truman Pkwy., Annapolis. 410-987-6034. Open April-September, Sat. 7 a.m.-noon; June-October, Tues. 7a.m.-noon; July-September, Sun. 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; October-December, Sat. 8 a.m.-noon.
Annapolis Seafood Market. 1300 Forest Dr., Annapolis. 410-269-5380 or http://www.annapolisseafoodmarket.com
Atwater’s Breads. Belvedere Sq., 529 E. Belvedere Ave., Baltimore, Md. 410-323-2396.
B&B Meat Barn. 19336 Lankford Pkwy., Parksley, Va. 757-665-4310.
Berlin “Shore Fresh” Farmers Market. North Main St., Berlin, Md. 410-641-4775. Open Wed. July-November, noon- 6 p.m.; Fri. April-December, noon-6 p.m.
Beautiful Foods. 715 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth, Del. 302-227-6282.
Bonjour Bakery. 6070 Falls Rd., Baltimore, Md. 410-372-0238.
Caffé Pronto. 90 Russell St., Annapolis. 410-626-0011 or http://www.caffepronto.com.
Cape Charles Farmers Market. Main St. opposite Cape Charles Hotel, Cape Charles, Va. Open 1-4 p.m. on Sat. in season.
Classic Cakes II. 601 Talbot St., St. Michaels, Md. 410-745-6347.
Colchester Farms. 31285 Georgetown Cemetery Rd., Georgetown, Md. 410- 648-9996 or colchesterfarm.org. Co-op providing twenty-two-week delivery of fresh produce.
Cowgirl Creamery. Point Reyes Station, Calif. 866-433-7834 or cowgirlcreamery.com. Order online from their virtual cheese store.
Di Bruno Bros. Rittenhouse Sq., Philadelphia, Pa. 215-665-9220 or http://www.dibruno.com.
Eco Farms. 9204 Crandall Rd., Lanham, Md. 301-459-6991.
Eddie’s of Roland Park. 5113 Roland Ave., Baltimore, Md. 410-323-3656 or http://www.eddiesofrolandpark.com.
Fells Point Wholesale Meats. 1600 S. Monroe St., Baltimore, Md. 410-539-5600
FireFly Farms. 1363 Brenneman Rd., Bittinger, Md. 301-245-4630 or http://www.fireflyfarms.com.
Great Harvest Bread Co. 208 Ridgely Ave., Annapolis Md. 410-268-4662 or http://www.greatharvest.com.
Han Au Reum. 800 N. Rolling Rd., Catonsville, Md. 443-612-9020.
Herbal Instincts. 141 Market St., Onancock, Va. 747-787-7071.
Jamison Farm. Latrobe, Pa. 800-237-5262 or http://www.jamisonfarm.com. Specializing in farm-raised lamb. Order online.
Keany Produce Co. 3310 75th Ave, Landover Md. 301-772-3333. http://www.keanyproduce.com. Open to the public Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-2 p.m.
Korean Korner. 12207 Viers Mill Rd. Wheaton, Md. 301-933-2000.
L&M Produce. 7460 Conowingo Ave., Jessup, Md. 410-779-7720. Open to the public for bulk orders.
Martin Seafood Company. 7901 Oceano Ave., Jessup, Md. 410-799-5822.
Mattawoman Creek Farms. 4103 Barlow Ln., Eastville Va. 757-678-5731.
North Street Market. 9 North St., Onancock. Va. 757-787-8805.
Peace of Cake. 314 Love Point Rd, Stevensville, Md. 410-604-0355.
R&C Seafood. 6396 Cliff’s Rd., Oyster, Va. 757-331-4484.
Rumbleway Farm. 592 McCauley Rd., Conowingo, Md. 410-658-9731 or http://www.rumblewayfarm.com.
Sand Hill Farm. 13095 Greensboro Rd, Greensboro, Md. 410-482-6123. Open April-October.
Trader Joe’s. 160 Jennifer Rd., Annapolis. 410-573-0505 or http://www.traderjoes.com.
Whole Foods Market. 2504 Solomons Island Rd., Annapolis. 410-573-1800 or http://www.wholefoods.com.
Can’t afford Jeeves the Butler? Here’s the next best thing. There’s nothing like a home-cooked meal, especially when someone else is doing all the work. Meet four area chefs who gladly do the shopping, then roll up their sleeves, tie on an apron, and get busy—in your own kitchen.
Kelly Kern
Gourmet Anyday, Baltimore
Area Served: Baltimore metro region
Specialty: Kern, who changed careers after getting a dual degree in cooking and baking from Baltimore International College, says her clients are requesting “home-cooked” comfort foods, such as pot roast and meatloaf. “I think the trend towards low-carb has ended; people are realizing that they can eat anything in moderation.”
Meal plan: Custom-created from a set menu; 5/4 plan (five days worth of entrees, each with four portions and attending side dishes), $365, food included. Day rate (research plus six to eight hours of specialty cooking), $325 plus groceries.
Contact: 410-532-7610 or http://www.gourmetanyday.com
Susan De Tomi
Thyme Is of the Essence, Chestertown, Md.
Area Served: Anne Arundel, Queen Anne, Talbot, Caroline, Kent, and Cecil counties as well as parts of Delaware
Specialty: Most clients come to De Tomi to help create organic, low-fat, or low-cholesterol meals; she also creates fusion cuisine. Susan credits her French mother with much of her culinary expertise; she perfected her French cooking and pastry skills at four-star restaurants in New York and Boston.
Meal Plan: 4/4 Plan, $320, plus groceries [?]. Day rate, $270, plus groceries [?].
Contact: 410-778-3794 or http://www.thymeisoftheessence.com
Christine Warrington
Madame Chef, Selbyville, Del.
Area Served: Ocean Pines, north Ocean City, Fenwick Island, Delaware beaches
Specialty: The 1987 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, and former executive chef at country clubs in New York and Maryland, specializes in fresh local seafood—and becoming part of the family.
Meal Plan: Day rate, $300, plus groceries; meal plans available.
Contact: 302-436-2743 or http://www.madamechef.com
Kris Etze
AbraÉcaÉdinner! Lewes, Del.
Area Served: Mostly Lewes and Rehoboth beach areas.
Specialty: Custom menu planning and nutritional consulting. Regular customers also appreciate the convenience of her meals. She vacuum packages and freezes most items; clients need only drop the package into boiling water. Etze also teaches cooking classes, from sushi to Indian cuisine.
Meal Plan: 5/4 Plan—standard service—begins at $330/week on a monthly contract, plus groceries; other plans are available.
Contact: 302-228-6125 or http://www.abracadinner.com
McLean Robbins, editor-in-chief of Wake Forest University’s student website, is a former CL intern. Additional information available from the Personal Chefs’ Network (http://www.personalchefsnetwork.com) and the American Personal Chef Institute and Association (http://www.personalchef.com).
Can’t tell a truffle from a trifle? Improve your cooking I.Q. with these hands-on classes.
Anne Arundel Community College
Arnold, Md. 410-777-2222 or http://www.aacc.edu
In addition to its culinary arts major, AACC offers non-credit classes in single or multi-session series (held at five locations on/near campus): “Fun with Phyllo,” artisan breadmaking, and more. Starting at around $40. Open houses on Nov. 9 and Dec. 14.
Jack Batten, Chef Professor
Upper Marlboro, Md. 301-627-4496 or http://www.chefprofessor.com
Batten, an American Culinary Institute graduate with thirty years experience in the food industry, caters to cooks in individual lessons and home parties. He works on specific techniques or cuisines, such as Indian and Thai. A detailed consultation precedes the four- to six-hour class, resulting in a meal of six dishes—and you get to eat the results. Personal lesson, $350; $400-450 for groups of six.
